Valloire - village
The label ‘Station de Caractère’ tells you that there’s much more to Valloire than being just another ski village. At its heart, for example, is the 17th-century church of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, whose sturdy outline of local stone conceals an astonishing extravaganza of lavish Baroque decoration, a clear sign of long-term prosperity. Valloire’s sheltered location, in a wide, fertile valley between the Col du Télégraphe and the Col du Galibier meant that by the 19th century it had attracted a population of around 3000, and the sense of history remains, along with its role as a year-round living, working community. This ensures that there are plenty of down-to-earth shops and services run by local people, a quality appreciated by summer visitors, many of whom break their journey in Valloire while following the legendary Route des Grandes-Alpes between Lac Léman and the Mediterranean. Over the years the Tour de France has also been a regular visitor, both Cols providing classic mountain-stage climbs.
In winter, though, when the Col du Galibier becomes impassable due to massive snowfalls, the route shuts down not far beyond Les Verneys, cutting through traffic at a stroke. They’ve been skiing here since the 1930s, so the local community has become adept at preparing both the mountain and the village itself to welcome today’s skiers, many of whom are families returning year after year to ski here, renew old acquaintances and generally enjoy the convivial atmosphere.
When the lifts close at the end of the day, the village streets and bars are upbeat and buzzy, but still family-friendly – and there’s an added festival mood during the international snow and ice sculpture competitions which take place in Valloire around January 18th each year. During the day you can watch the sculptors at work, and at nightfall displays of many completed works are illuminated, coloured lights adding to the spectacle value of it all.
Accommodation
Stay in the centre of the village, with plenty of independent boutiques and food shops, if you want to make the most of its charms by day and by night, especially during one of the popular festivals and special events. The 3* Grande Hotel de Valloire is at the entrance to the main village and well situated for easy access to the whole domain via the Crêt de la Brive gondola just across the road. There are 44 bedrooms over five floors (lift access) and most have recently been refurbished in simple Savoie style.
A little further along the road is the 3* Hotel Patchwork Altitude, much more contemporary in style and with 10 recently-restyled standard or superior bedrooms. Its Le Hameau Gourmand restaurant and Patchwork Café, serving tapas and locally-brewed Galibier beer, are both worth a visit.
The chalet-style 2* Christiania Hotel, with its decorated balconies and popular restaurant, is just steps away from the gondola and has 23 comfortable rooms. The Hotel offers all-inclusive packages comprising half-board accommodation and a 6-day lift pass. Other centrally-located hotels include the Hotel du Centre, Hotel de la Poste plus the Hotel les Mélèzes, which is close to the Sétaz gondola.
Valloire includes many hamlets, the main outlying areas for accommodation being in Les Granges, Le Col and Les Choseaux (which are before the main village), Moulin Benjamin (just after it) and the authentic Les Verneys (2 km past Valloire but with good access to the ski domain and its own free beginners area). Here you’ll find 2* Le Crêt Rond in the village centre and the chalet-style 2* Hotel Relais du Galibier, which is just 50m from the Verneys chairlift.
Valloire has a good choice of self-catering tourist residences and chalet apartments. The Chalets du Galibier is in a relatively quiet spot 10 minutes’ walk (or a quick Skibus ride) from the village centre and directly opposite the Moulin Benjamin chairlift (Chalets du Galibier II is 200m further away). The apartments are both spacious and well-equipped with facilities including two swimming pools, sauna and steam room.
On the other side of Valloire in Les Charbonnières, and with direct access to the slopes is Les Valmonts, the best-located of the residences in this sector. The four large chalets contain fully-equipped apartments with balconies are finished in traditional stone and wood. Facilities include heated indoor pool with hydromassage, sauna and steam room. Further up the slopes, Les Chalets Valoria comprise 100 apartments in six chalet-style buildings. The spacious apartments all have a balcony, enjoy magnificent views and are just 300m from the lift and 100m from the slopes. The topmost Le Hameau and Les Chalets de la Vallée d’Or are very close to the slopes (depending on your apartment) and the Crêt de la Brive gondola, although guests will rely heavily on the shuttle bus to visit the village (the service runs every 10 min throughout the day). Expect spacious if simply-furnished, basic family accommodation, which is what we found at the other Odalys residence, the Hameau de Valloire. Some apartments have exceptional views towards Galibier and the valley, and there’s an indoor pool, hammam and sauna. Situated in Les Granges, about 2 km from Valloire, the residence is in an isolated position with no shops or bars nearby, but the regular shuttle-bus stops right in front of the building for the 5 min journey to the Crêt de la Brive gondola and the village (return journeys are slightly longer as the bus travels in a loop).
Les Roches Fleuries is located 50m from the Sétaz gondola and close to the village centre. Bright and functional apartments sleep from 4 to 10 people (with the use of sofa-beds).
French Alps specialist tour operator Peak Retreats offers a selection of luxury chalet apartments such as the recently-built Les Alpages d’Auguste in Valloire. This traditional style chalet contains four spacious apartments sleeping up to 14 people, and situated in a quiet location on the outskirts of the village, just over 300m from the ski-lifts. In the hamlet of Les Verneys, you could stay in an authentic village house known simply as ‘Alpe’. Divided into five self-contained, high-quality apartments, the house stands in its own grounds with parking, ski lockers, laundry facilities and free wifi. It’s a short walk to the high-speed chairlift and village shops. Also at Les Verneys, Les Fermes du Planet is a small complex consisting of three luxury apartments plus a separate modern house known as Le Planet, which offers five bedrooms arranged over three floors. Guests have access to pool, sauna and Jacuzzi and enjoy free wifi, a sunny aspect and proximity to shops, bar, restaurant and the Verneys chairlift.
Alps expert Erna Low offers a traditional style chalet La Grande Ourse. Located just 100m from the slopes, the chalet enjoys magnificent views and is furnished to a high standard in cosy Savoyard style. Ideal for an extended family or a group of friends, the chalet includes garage parking, a log fire and fully-equipped kitchen.
The Valloire reservations service runs special promotions throughout the season. Look out for their Kids Ski for Free week in mid-April, Early Bird specials, cheap January offers and all-inclusive packages.
Ski/snowboard equipment hire
If you are booking your ski holiday through a tour operator, check whether they have an affiliation with a ski hire shop in the resort. You will be able to pre-book equipment at a shop close to your accommodation and generally at a favourable price. Ski specialist Peak Retreats offers ski, snowboard and boot-hire from Sport 2000 which has four outlets at Negano Sports and Snowandski, and two Martin Sports shops.
Other national ski hire shops such as Skiset, Intersport, Twinner, and Skimium are represented in the resort, along with independent shops La Ruade, Magnin Sports, Gilbert Sport, Chamois Sport and Moulinot Sport (tel: +33 4 79 83 28 56). Most equipment can now be reserved and paid for in advance via shop websites. Choose a hire shop close to your accommodation so you can quickly collect your gear on arrival, and change it if necessary.
Non-ski activities
Several companies offer programmes of snowshoe walks to discover the valley, enjoy high-mountain views, identify animal tracks or spot wildlife. The Bureau des Guides, based at the central ESF office (tel:+33 4 79 59 00 73), offers a weekly programme of activities and walks. L’Estancot offers family outings, either through forests or on the mountain. Information for these is available at the Kôsa Krûta sandwich bar next to the Mairie. Galibier Raquettes has a varied menu of walks featuring different levels of difficulty and types of terrain. They’re flexible on possibilities and will design a snowshoe walk to suit you, with a choice of routes and timings.
If you’re interested in local heritage, there are numerous guided walks organised on a theme and led by qualified heritage guides. All ages will enjoy farm visits, such as at the Ferme de la Borgé (+33 4 79 83 37 87 ), where you can see cheese-making. Alternatively, visit the Asinerie, a donkey farm which offers activities and rides for all ages, plus a boutique selling products made from donkey milk. Visit the Tourist Office for more information, or see the activities programme on valloire.net.
It’s great fun to take a dog for a walk – but how about letting a dog take you? Cani-rando is where a dog will provide some of the pulling power to help you explore the mountain in snowshoes. Run Arctic also offer dog-sledding outings. If dogs aren’t your thing how about llamas? Unique in the Alps, you can go for a walk with a llama, under the supervision of a mountain guide, information from Kôsa Krûta.
Other outdoor activities include paragliding or speed-riding, ice-skating, or for something a little more sedate, you can tour the village on a Segway. For indoor fun try bowling, the cinema (includes films in English), sauna, Jacuzzi, gym and hammam at Val’Form (+33(0)4 79 83 39 12, open every day ) – or for a more relaxing experience, massages and beauty treatments at Les Sens des Cîmes.
Childcare
There’s a particularly warm welcome for children in Valloire, which is one of the growing number of Famille Plus ski villages which promise to offer special services and activities for families. Under-fives get a free skipass, and on a gentle slope at Les Verneys the draglift is available free of charge, enabling families to practice skiing together.
At the “Les Aiglons” day nursery (+33 4 79 59 03 98) in the village, a team of qualified staff looks after children from six months to six year-olds, either for half or full days (closed Saturdays). It’s conveniently situated close to the Sétaz gondola on Rue du Tigny. If children are enrolled in ski school, a ski monitor will drive them between their lesson and the nursery, leaving parents free to stay on the slopes.
Children between 3 and 11 years old can spend the day at the “Les Loupiots” recreation centre (+33(0) 4 79 83 39 85, ), where they are grouped according to age to enjoy a range of supervised activities plus quiet time loosely based on a theme which runs throughout the week. Open Mon - Fri 8-30am - 6pm.
There’s a great family offer from the 12 - 21 April 2014, when children can ski for free. Book accommodation via the Valloire website and you get nine days for the price of seven – including Easter Monday. Under-16s get a free ski pass, and for every adult hiring equipment, one child gets their equipment pack free of charge. There’s also free children’s entry to the cinema each day, plus loads of child-friendly activities throughout the week. See La Montagne aux Enfants.