Valloire - slopes
Considering the sheer size and variety of Galibier-Thabor’s high-altitude ski terrain, it’s perhaps surprising that Valloire isn’t better-known. The mountains normally receive the same epic snowfalls which bury the nearby Col du Galibier throughout the winter, and the Maurienne enjoys a growing reputation for the quality of the skiing.
The main access to the ski area is via two high-speed gondolas, Sétaz serving the terrain below the nearest peak of La Sétaz des Près (2358m), while its companion Crêt de la Brive hauls skiers up to onward chairlifts heading up to Le Grand Plateau (2524m) and Le Crey du Quart (2534m). There are blue-graded return runs back to the village so - snow-cover permitting - you have the choice of skiing back or taking a gondola down.
Further up the route to the Col are two further access-points – a 4-seat chairlift at Moulin Benjamin, and a new high-speed chair at Les Verneys. The former serves a choice of blue-graded runs, either over to the Sétaz gondola or around to Les Verneys, for a trip slightly higher up the mountain than the gondola achieves.
Not surprisingly, the further you ski from the various arrival-points the better the sense of space and openness, and you can cover some real distance here. Getting to Valmeinier, for example, involves crossing the Neuvache river, with a choice of chairlifts at opposite ends of the village. Once across there’s a whole new set of possibilities, particularly for cruising fans.
Ski highlights for all levels
Beginners: Things are well placed, with dedicated beginner areas right beside the arrival-point of each gondola lift. In addition, there’s a third area (which has a free draglift) for those staying at Les Verneys. Graduate from these and although there are only a few green-graded runs, they’re thoughtfully sited and satisfyingly long, helping new skiers to build confidence, with a sense of having achieved something meaningful (not to mention getting a taste of real, high-altitude mountain scenery). Moving onto blue runs should be straightforward, since much care has gone into planning the piste layout to maximise skier safety. Be aware, though, that some are quite long, so it’s best to work your way up to these gradually.
Intermediates: A high proportion of Galibier-Thabor’s runs are graded blue, but since they’re quite varied, there’s something among them for all tastes. The runs served by the Sétaz gondola and the Moulin Benjamin and Verneys chairlifts are a great way to start the day, particularly among the trees after overnight snowfalls.
Ultimately more rewarding, though, is the terrain of the Crey du Quart sector, which marks the transition from Valloire’s territory to that of Valmeinier. If you’re happy to ski easier reds as well as blues then there are plenty of options on the west-facing Valloire side, the undoubted highlights being a long red-graded plunge from Le Grand Plateau on Gerboise and Mulot pistes, and the even longer blue-graded cruise from Le Crey du Quart itself on Selles – a scenic outrun which takes you through a quiet valley (where the reds feed onto it) for a choice of return runs back to the village. It’s a great way to end the day.
However, mornings are also a good time time to head over to Valmeinier, something you’ll want to do more than once since all the options are worth skiing. The most straightforward is via Combe Orsière, a bracing blue-graded cruise from Le Grand Plateau (2524m) down to the Inversins high-speed chairlift, which drops you comfortably above the village of Valmeinier 1800. More of an adventure, though, is from Le Crey du Quart on Armera – another long blue piste, with incredible scenery and some steeps along the way. At the bottom you’ll have a vertiginous ride across a deep gorge on the Armera chairlift (which carries skiers across the gorge in both directions) to Valmeinier 1500, or a smooth haul back up towards the Valloire sector on the powerful Grandes Drozes high-speed chair. The third intermediate option is again from Le Crey du Quart but this time on Combe and then Grapil, which is graded blue but is narrow enough to offer some challenges as it snakes its way down to meet Armera. Whichever route you choose, you find the slopes above Valmeinier are home to more great cruising runs.
Experts: While in theory there are many off-piste opportunities nearby, most are not viable, owing to the instability of snow lying on steeper terrain. However, both Crey du Quart (Valloire) and Le Gros Crey (Valmeinier) are used by freeriders, the former with the reassurance that eventually you’ll drop onto Combe Orsière – a long, blue-graded return run from Le Grand Plateau (2524m) down to the Giroderie chairlift, which will allow you to ski back to the Armera chair to cross the valley.
Alternatively, peel off the Armera piste above the tree-line for a steep powder drop to pick up the Grapil Blue. When avalanche risk is low there’s also some interesting powder-skiing potential closer to home just up the valley from Valloire near Les Verneys, where once-lift-served terrain on the slopes below Crey Rond (2667m) was closed and restored to nature in 2000.
Also above Valloire are Meregers and Dahu, both black-graded and normally left ungroomed - as are the Chamois and Edelweiss Reds, if you feel like getting in some mogul practice. The same applies to Cotérieux, accessed from Le Crey du Quart and feeding onto the Combe Orsière Blue.
Ski schools and guides
The largest ski-school is the ESF whose main office is at the foot of the Crêt de la Brive gondola in the centre of Valloire. There are several meeting points: one at Le Moulin Benjamin, another at Les Verneys and one in front of the main ESF office. Lessons are available in six languages including English, although you must state your preference at the time of booking.
There are group lessons for children from 3 - 6 years old in two Piou Piou Clubs, where fun and games provide a gentle introduction to skiing. The Club Ourson is in the centre of the village and P’tits Loups is at Les Verneys. For children from seven years upwards, progression can be via group or private lessons, either in skiing or snowboarding, which is particularly popular for teens (who can also choose freestyle and off-piste lessons). Adult tuition is open to all, and in all disciplines including Nordic, snowshoeing and off-piste. You can book and pay for lessons via the website (available in English). ESF also offers a programme of handiski sessions (skiing for those with a disability) with qualified personnel. Contact the school direct to find out more and to reserve equipment.
The Ecole de Ski de Valloire (www.esivalloire.com) is a small team of professional instructors giving tuition in ski, télémark, cross-country, snowboard and handiski for all ages, plus special programmes for teenagers. It offers lessons in four languages including English. Children from three years upwards go into La Souris Verte (The Green Mouse) Club, situated in the heart of the village, where they can play and learn in a protected and specially-prepared area in groups of no more than eight children. A children’s “discovery session” costing 32€ is available. You can make enquiries and pre-book lessons via the website.
Independent instructor Valentino Paleni at Ski Valloire offers a range of interesting activities and outings including challenging freeride and off-piste adventures, or gentler ski safaris to discover the wildlife and natural environment on the mountain.
Also in tune with nature, Eric Croux-Schmitt, Moniteur de Ski Alternatif (+33 6 20 31 24 19 or eric@moniteurdeski-alternatif.com) gives individual ski tuition using his alternative teaching methods, respectful of the natural environment whilst enjoying the pleasures of skiing on and off-piste.
Lift system
Valloire offers a choice of two powerful gondolas for the haul up from the village to either the Sétaz or Crey du Quart areas (and safely down again should weather conditions deter you from skiing back). In the past, though, the ski area has seen its fair share of lift-queues, but in recent years heavy and sustained investment in lift infrastructure has turned things around decisively. With few exceptions, the whole domain is now served by chairlifts, which are themselves being upgraded as necessary to powerful high-speed installations like the new Verneys and Cornafond six-seaters. One lift you won’t forget is the Armera two-way chairlift across the deep Neuvache river gorge to Valmeinier, although you have the alternative of crossing the upper end of the valley rapidly and comfortably on the Inversins high-speed four-seater.
Snow reliability and snowmaking
Surrounded by tall peaks and sited between two celebrated high mountain passes (the Col du Télégraphe and the Col du Galibier), Valloire and Valmeinier are among the better performers when it comes to annual snowfall figures. By way of added reassurance though, some 400 snowmaking units have been installed, both to kick-start the season and to assure snow-cover from December-April. The investments look like continuing, with new projects set to extend cover on lower sections of return runs.