St. Anton is bustling, with a mainly pedestrianised centre and, although with traditional Tirolean scenic quality, it stops short of being chocolate-box twee.

There are bars, restaurants and top-notch ski and board shops in equal measure, with banks, supermarkets and every other essential.

St AntonSt AntonPhotograph: TV

B St Anton

A mainline rail station used to be right in the centre but was moved to the fringes at vast cost some years ago to free up lots of land; we were a bit sorry, because there was nothing like arriving by train in a snowstorm in the village centre. 

There are frequent trains from Zürich and Innsbruck and the Orient Express stops here.

St AntonSt AntonPhotograph: TVB St Anton

Accommodation

There's massive choice and high quality too, from guest houses to a 5-star hotel, the St Antonerhof (00 43 5446 2910), and lots of 3- and 4-star hotels.

The main choice is central or out at Nasserein. Both have good access to the skiing – Nasserein is quieter and handy for the nursery slopes. We like the hotels near the main lifts, such as the Alte Post (00 43 5446 25530), the Neue Post (or Hotel Post) (00 43 5446 22130) and the Schwarzer Adler (00 43 5446 22440).

But we've stayed at dozens and never been disappointed. There are plenty of British-run chalets too. 

Ski/snowboard equipment hire

Some great ski shops with the latest gear – try Alber Sports (00 43 5446 3400), who are agents for custom-fitted Strolz boots, Jennewein (00 43 5446 28300) or Intersport Arlberg (00 43 5446 34533). All offer online pre-booking via the resort's website.

Non ski activities

There is plenty to do – a great toboggan run, one of the best sleigh rides in the Alps into the Verwall Valley, swimming, ice skating and curling, winter hiking, tennis and squash and even tenpin bowling.

A new sports and climbing centre, arl.rock, features climbing walls and an ice wall, along with tennis, football, volleyball and squash.

Childcare

The Kindergarten gives ski lessons from two and a half years, and facilities are excellent. Family specialists Mark Warner (0871 703 38 88) and Ski Esprit (01252 618 300) have their own childcare programmes.