In the town

Full on. It all starts up the mountain, at the legendary Mooserwirt or Krazy Kanguruh (00 43 5446 2633), sometimes at the Sennhutte (00 43 5446 2048). Then in town at the Piccadilly where the awesome Gunar is an institution.

The Piccadilly is also good later for live music, along with the Hazienda (00 43 5446 2968) (which also does good food) and the Kandahar, run by Brit Jonathan Verney (also good for watching sport on TV).

The Funky Chicken is popular, but for quieter drinks maybe the Platzl Apres or Jacksy's. Many guests have half board and eat well at their hotels, but notable restaurants include Ben.venuto (00 43 5446 302 03), the Sporthotel Steakhouse (00 43 5446 3111) and the St Antonerhof (00 43 5446 2910).

Underground on the Piste (00 43 5446 2000), run by Australian Joan, is a delightful nightspot with good musicians and good food.

Mountain restaurants

St. Anton has some famous huts. The Ulmer Hütte (00 43 5446 302 00) for example – stay late here on a sunny afternoon until the piste patrol move you on, then have a glorious run down on an empty piste.

The Sennhütte (00 43 5446 2048) and Griabli (00 43 5446 3673), near the village, are good for lunch, and the Rodelhütte has a rustic atmosphere.

Like many others, we love St. Christoph, where the Hospiz Alm (00 43 5446 3625) is a must-visit, or Stuben, with Hannes Schneider's old house in the main street. For fine dining, the Verwall Stube (00 43 5446 235 2501) in the Galzig top station is superb.