The iconic symbol of St. Anton is the mighty Valluga (2,811m), which stands over a massive snow bowl – one of skiing's most spectacular vistas.

A cable car takes skiers and boarders up from Galzig and there's another tiny cable car to the peak on which you can take skis and boards only if accompanied by a guide, because this accesses the direct link to Zürs and Lech, via the north face of the Valluga – a very intimidating run.

However, St. Anton also has much gentler areas and the regular route back to St. Anton from the Valluga is not at all scary.

A futuristic Ferris wheel style gondola has replaced the old cable car from the village to Galzig, at the hub of the skiing. From here runs of all colours radiate to the lovely village of St. Christoph back to St. Anton, or on to Stuben.

A gondola from Nasserein – the quiet end of St. Anton – travels up to Gampen, which can also be reached by a fast chairlift from the main village. There are dedicated nursery areas at Nasserein, and also beginners' runs at Gampen. The Gampen and, higher up, Kapall areas are full of blues and reds.

Winter 09-10 sees the introduction of an ultra-modern new fast Rendl cable car, which is now closer to the resort centre. 

St. Anton's famous bowls of Mattun and Schindlerkar, although feeling wild and remote, are easily reached. Above Stuben are some of the area's most uncrowded slopes and best snow.

And the rest of the Arlberg runs, at Zürs and Lech and all on the lift-pass, are a 20-minute bus ride away. 

Ski highlights for all levels

Beginners: some say St. Anton is too serious a resort to be ideal for beginners, but there are excellent nursery slopes at Nasserein and Gampen.

And if you learn to ski here, you’ll ski well anywhere.

Intermediates: if you’re up for a challenge, you’ll be in your element. Despite St. Anton's name as an experts' resort, there is a wealth of long blue runs – perfect to clock up miles.

The separate area of 'Rendl Beach', so-called because in late season you'll find bikini-clad sunbathers here, is a good choice on a sunny day.

Experts: pure bliss. In St. Anton, all the reds are at the very least interesting (and many would be blacks in other resorts). This is big-time Alpine skiing and from most lifts it's possible to pick a challenge.

Whether it's an early morning blast on the FIS downhill course from Kapall, ending with the steep but now widened Fang run, or one of the throat-drying couloirs as you leave the Schindlergratbahn, experts are spoilt for choice.

And Stuben is the starting point for some of the best off-piste adventures, including the Waterfall run from the Maroikopf or the descents into the Verwall Valley.

Ski schools and guides

The resort is home to several schools. Skischule Arlberg (00 43 5446 3411) and Skischule St. Anton (00 43 5446 3563) are under the same ownership but operating separately. With the area's teaching pedigree, standards are high.

Also highly rated is Piste to Powder (01434 676 837), which specialises in off-piste teaching and guiding.

Snow reliability and snowmaking

Much of the skiing is high, and snow records are good. About 95% of runs are covered with snowmaking as a backup.

Terrain park

There's a 200m-long park over at Rendl for fun in the sun.