Alpe d'Huez - village

Alpe d'Huez has a lofty feel, perched at 1,860 metres (6,102 ft) on a huge ledge high above Bourg d’Oisans. Hence, the many sunny days here are long and bright. Although purpose-built, the resort has a lot more atmosphere than many high-altitude ski stations.

It helps that there are distinct areas – the quarters of Cognet, Vieil Alpe, Jeux, Eclose, Passeaux, Bergers and the lower Huez Village – with new buildings in the classic chalet style. Development is ongoing in Les Bergers ‘suburb’. Ski-lifts dot the main village, and the whole area is linked by free, regular shuttle buses – so it’s up to you whether you want to stay in the heart of the resort or not.

The main street is Avenue des Jeux, which is where you’ll find the chief concentration of shops, bars, and restaurants, as well as an indoor and outdoor swimming pool and ice rink.

The domain is a true ‘ski circus’, embracing several other villages, wonderful for those who are happier in a quieter environment. We like Villard-Reculas, originally a tiny farming hamlet with an 18th-century church, now just a fast chairlift ride from the main ski area.

Photo: Laurent Salino

Oz-en-Oisans is a little purpose-built resort in its own right, with its nursery slopes and two telecabines up to the main area. It has a skating rink, bars, restaurants, and shops, including a supermarket.

Auris-en-Oisans is also purpose-built, but attractively so with chalet-style timber-faced buildings, above the ancient village of Auris.

Finally, Vaujany is developing into a sizeable village. In its pedestrianised centre, built in traditional style, there are shops, bars, and restaurants, as well as a sports centre with pool and waterslides. From Vaujany, a two-stage cable car takes you to the centre of Alpe d’Huez’s ski area, while a telecabine accesses the intermediate terrain at Montfrais. The infrastructure at Vaujany is already substantial and like Les Bergers in the main village, development is ongoing.

Accommodation

In the main village of Alpe d’Huez, the selection of hotels is impressive for a purpose-built resort. Around 20 hotels operate, mostly two or three-star, but now with three four-stars: the Au Chamois d’Or (0033 476 803 132), the Pic Blanc (0033 4 76 11 42 42), and the recently opened Alpenrose (0033 4 27 04 28 04) – a welcome addition with good facilities including a gym and a hammam. Most of the hotels are in chalet style, heavily timbered and balconied – apart from Le Dome (0033 4 76 80 32 11), which resembles a giant liquorice all-sort.

For the resort’s accommodation to match its skiing and underline its case to join the ranks of the international superstar ski destinations, one would hope some more four-star or even five-star hotels might be on the horizon.

Villard-Reculas has self-catering apartments and chalets, which can be booked through the English-run agency La Source (01707 655 988), as well as a two-star hotel, the Beaux Monts (0033 4 76 80 43 14).

Oz has a good selection of apartments and two hotels. Auris-en-Oisans also has a hotel, the Beau Site (0033 04 76 80 06 39), and down in the old village the Auberge de la Foret (0033 4 76 80 06 01) is popular with some British skiers who return there year after year.

Vaujany has a handful of hotels, one run by the British ski company Ski Peak, and a rapidly expanding selection of apartments. There are also quite a few catered chalets.

Photo: Laurent Salino

Ski/snowboard equipment hire

Alpe d’Huez boasts a huge choice of ski shops. Which one you pick will depend on where in the resort you’re staying. Each quarter of Alpe d’Huez has at least three rental shops each vying with each other for custom, which is ultimately good for the client.

If you want to take advantage of SkiSet’s online ordering service so your gear is ready and waiting for you when you arrive, check out their website. They operate at AB Sports in the centre, Henri Sports at Eclose and Les Bergers, and Man Sports and Quikstore Alpiski at Les Bergers.

Non-ski activities

Alpe d’Huez is well set up for fun, non-ski activities – take your pick from dog-sledging (either driving a sledge yourself or sitting back as a passenger); ski joering, where you’re pulled along on skis by a horse; snowshoe excursions, (including night-time torchlit walks); trips up the mountain in a piste-basher; a trip to the Ice Cave at 2,700m with a constantly changing exhibition of ice sculptures; and of course, non-skiers can take the cable car to the summit of Pic Blanc for one of the most stunning panoramas in the Alps. There’s also an ice-driving school, go-karting on ice, paragliding, and helicopter sightseeing flights – actual heli-skiing is not allowed but you can get picked up at the end of some off-piste routes and brought back to base by helicopter if you fancy splashing out. You can tackle the resort’s indoor climbing wall, try your hand at curling on the outdoor ice rink, or sign up for a game of tennis or squash at the sports centre.

Photo: Laurent Salino

Childcare

The municipal crèche, Les Intrepides, takes children from three months to four years and is open from 8.30 am to 5.30 pm. Meals and snacks are provided. Make sure you have your child’s health records with you – they won’t be accepted without them. The ESF prides itself on being very child-friendly, with well-organised kindergarten services. The tourist office is happy to help you arrange babysitters.